Walking Among The Old Ones

8/23/13

PCT mile 2536-2550  -  14 miles

Elev 4520-2325

Yesterday was our 1 month on the trail milepost!

Rain woke me in the night last night.. I hadn't pitched my vestibule on the tent so there was potential that wind would blow rain in on me.  Quickly,  I was outside with my tiny LED searching for a rock to anchor my line for the vestibule.  That done I got back to bed.  It rained enough to create condensation in my tent so in the morning I had to just roll it all up wet, inside and out. I really hate that.  Rain makes everything heavy plus there's the worry that at some point I have to stop and try to dry out my stuff.  So...I was grumpy and short tempered.

With our Packas on (it's like a poncho for us plus a pack cover) we took off up the switchbacks at 6:45.

There was lots of brush even though the trail crews had been out brushing this section.   I resigned myself to being wet today from mid thigh to my socks.

There are also logs over the trail so some fancy footwork was required and Peggy had to take off her pack on one challenging log to shove it under and then follow after. We finally made it to the top and noodled around up there until the trail went to the other side and moved down into alpine meadows and we saw the another side of Glacier Peak. 

The following are a series of photos of the alpine meadows, rocks, streams from the glaciers and flowers blooming in their short summer season. It was still drizzling and cloudy.

Lupine.

These basins are big, wide, sweeping places. 

Thick carpets of bright green moss are places for tiny flowers to bloom.

YellowMonkey Flowers and I don't know the tiny pink one.

I've been calling this a penstemon but I think it's Lewis' Monkeyflower.

Looking back on the trek through the rocks,  we came over the saddle (the dip on the top of this photo) and switch backed down through the rocks.

 Even though it stopped raining it was still overcast with slight clearing. At a wide spot in the meadow we set up our tents and dried our wet stuff.  It took about 1/2 hr. and we were ready to move on.  I worry when my tent & bag are damp, that it will be hard to stay warm at night if I can't get my stuff dry. So now I have no worries!

Mist was rising up through the valleys to creep over the ridges above,  we hoped it wouldn't rain again too much. Two folks hiking south passed us otherwise we were the only ones out here.

A fat marmot stopped in the trail 15 feet in front of us munching flowers and greenery. 

He wasn't concerned with our presence at all so I made appropriate marmot noises and he ran off. 

Walking along on the grassy slopes, the trail almost covered with grasses hanging over,  I stepped in a big marmot hole, twisted my left ankle and fell on my side. I heard a crunching sound and thought  "Noooo!"  I stood up, carefully tested the ankle and walked it out slowly. (it wouldn't bother me again until the last section and then only because the trail was like a ditch sloping in and making me walk on the inside of my foot).

Once down into the forest it was quiet and shady, no more rain fell but things were moist.  We has some big trees that we had to get over such as this one that Peggy decided to shove her pack under. I climbed up and around but sometimes that's more work!

 We knew we would be walking the new 5 mile addition of trail that opened last year leading up to the new bridge over the Suiattle River.  It has taken years to rebuild this section of trail after storms had taken out the old bridge. For a long time hikers had posted photos of crossing this swift, cold, glacial river on a big old log. Most sat down and scooted across it but some walked across, amazingly. 

We were looking forward to seeing the new trail, bridge and the section that went through old grove trees.

We had 8.5 miles to the river where we planned to camp but when blueberries  present themselves you have to honor their effort and enjoy them. 

So we picked!   

Then we hiked through thimbleberry, salmon berry, willow, anything that could choke the trail we waded through, on into the forest.  This forest is different than others, a quiet is here, maybe it's the deep mat of needles and tiny hemlock cones that we're walking on. Deep moss on each side of the trail and we see some sunlight filtering through, maybe we've ditched the rain after all!

Soon I see really huge trees; Douglas Fir, Red Cedar here and there. It's deeply quiet when we stopped for 2nd lunch to rest among the trees.

Moving on we have 6 miles of fairly even forest trail to walk on, we both are craning our necks looking up. 

We came to the trail junction where the new trail joins and it's just amazing to imagine all the work that went into remaking this trail so far from civilization.

At this point we only have 3.5 miles to the bridge but we're both anticipating "The Grove" which showcases old growth Douglas Fir, Red Cedar, Hemlock and, we're told Sitka Spruce.

As we crossed a small bridge we were suddenly there in the grove. 

I loved touching them, this is a huge Douglas Fir.

I took this looking up from the trunk so you can get some idea of how tall these were, the branches are far up the tree and the bark deeply grooved.

Straight ahead are huge Red Cedars, their bases are so big they remind me of elephant legs, bigger around at the base where they root into the ground.  

This is a magnificent place, I feel as though I'm in the presence of The Ancients.  We never did see a Sitka Spruce.

Hiking 1.5 miles further we came to the new Suiattle Bridge, it was a work of magnitude as you can see.

Steel beams must have been airlifted in, I'd love to read the story of this bridge project.

We camped below the bridge by this glacial river and had a good night's sleep because you couldn't hear anything but the river!

This day was special, walking through the old grove was a highlight for me. Another beautiful place!

No Place To Camp

8/22/13

PCT mile 2520-2536 - 16 miles

Elev 5475- @4500

We got a good nights sleep and I'm happy there was no condensation on the inside of my tent!  The flies were crazy-bad last afternoon and evening but not active yet this morning for which we give many thanks!  We were on the trail at 6:45 with a slight uphill until we reached Kennedy Creek, another glacial runoff stream that we needed to use rocks to find our way over.  My foot slipped and went 1/2 way in so I squished as I walked this morning.  We passed where we thought the 4 young folks were camped, still in their tents at 7:30. Wading through the brush and muddy trail we arrived at Glacier Creek, a fast flowing glacial creek with a broken bridge and a huge, high bank of volcanic ash that has been exposed by slides. 

Broken bridge.

 Peggy going over the bridge.

Before we began the climb up this mountain we stopped to pick big,  fat huckleberries to sweeten the upcoming labor of climbing about 3200 feet in elevation today. My legs felt weak, like I needed more fuel to make them move.  We are climbing up the mountains that surround Glacier Peak.

One view of Glacier Peak.

We should be seeing many of the glaciers on the peak as we make our way around it in the coming days.  We crossed creeks...

and bushwhacked across others. 

Stopping for a break the flies were horrible!  

Coming around one mountain we'd be faced with another big, long traverse across the next hillside.  Up, up and up again until we were at the pass looking right at glaciers and snowfields. 

Finally, at the top!  I looked at where the trail descended off the pass, this is what I saw.

 Coming down the trail at the left see the new valley we're going through.

The trail goes through this field of boulders that have broken off and fallen from the peaks above.

This is a 5 mile section of switchbacks going down to glacial Milk Creek where we plan on camping.

Meanwhile we passed beautiful Mica Lake where we'd love to camp but can't because we need to do more miles today.

Mica Lake had ice floating in it.

We stopped to rest at this lake and enjoyed conversation with the 2 older gentlemen that we've been leapfrogging with.  They've chosen to stay here tonight while we are moving on to the bottom of the mountain. 

It was a long, long descent making our legs tired. At the bottom was the bridge over Milk Creek (where we got 2 liters for a dry camp) and a 3.5 mile uphill set of switchbacks.  No campsites anywhere and rain clouds gathering. We looked and looked but there was no place to stay the night.  The options were  to climb 3.5 miles up and hope for a campsite at the top (but we weren't going to make it before darkness fell)  or we could sleep on the trail sitting up wrapped in our down jackets covered with our ponchos. We were not happy girls at these choices but there was nothing to do but step up to the switchbacks and go.  

We hadn't climbed but a few switchbacks when we met a hiker coming down the trail southbound.  We exchanged trail information and he told us he'd seen a small place we could possibly camp,  he couldn't remember how far away the site was, maybe 1-2 miles? But he thought it was a site used to stage equipment for the trail crews that had been cutting brush on the switchbacks. To lighten our packs  (2 liters = 4#) we decided to cook dinner there on the trail, once that was done we started hiking and looking for the site. We found it after about 20 minutes and it was perfect. As night fell we walked down a side trail pounded flat by equipment but wide enough and roomy enough for 2 tents plus!  Set up was fast and before long we were set for the night. 

There's a saying " The Trail Provides." It certainly did for us tonight,  so many are praying for us and we are taken care of!

Walking To Beautiful

8/21/13

PCT mile 2505-2520   -  15 mi

Elev 5475-3960

During the night last night I happened to get up and there were so many stars I couldn't see anything familiar. They covered the sky in amazing profusion!

My tent was wet inside from condensation so I used my microfiber towel to mop it out and wring easily a cup of cold water off the inside walls.

Feet taped up we were on the trail by 7 as the sun hit the backdrop of cliffs behind the lake. We climbed up and up to a place called Kodak Mt where you could catch long views of ridge after ridge that ranged off into the distance. Around long, open, meadowed hillsides we dropped down & then climbed back up again. We began to see the glacier peak again and came to a sign that told us we were entering Glacier Peak Wilderness, there is a rugged, remote feeling here although I know there are trailheads,  we haven't passed a road or sign of civilization access for days. No cell service, no way to contact anyone. 

Our first sight of the glacier.

Oh boy, are we in for a surprise!

Down the trail to one of the most remote sections yet. 

We missed our water source but found a small freshet. Using a Ziplock baggie we filled it with water and I filtered from that. Low bush blueberries were all over but we didn't pick any, we sought shade for "almost lunch". As we were snacking 2 men came around the corner and stopped to chat.  One was from Vashon Island, Washington where my Aunt & Uncle lived for years. I told him my Aunt used to own a book store on the island called Books By The Way. To my surprise he said he used to own that store, he'd bought it from the 2nd owner!  He'd heard of my Aunt but had never met her. What a small, small world!

After snack we hiked over White Pass which we could see from our lunch spot a mile away, almost above tree line we can see for miles.  Over the White Pass we hiked along a high slope for a long way, climbing 1600' along the slope with the hillside dropping away at our feet. Just the kind of high exposed trail that makes Peggy nervous. The gentleman from Vashon Is. told us the glacial peak was Sloan Peak and the long group of mountain peaks beside it was called Monte Cristo Massif.

I am on the trail with the Monte Cristo Massif in front of me.

The ever climbing trail up to Red's Pass from White Pass.

You can see the Massif on the left and Sloan Mt on the far right of the photo. The mountain slope falls a long way down to the bottom if you dare to look left as you hike.There were other hikers coming down and it was sometimes  tricky finding a place to let them get by.

Once we got to the top of Red's Pass we cold see down into the next valley, it was starkly beautiful. Look closely to see where the PCT goes down this valley. It switchbacks in the left of the photo. We rested for a long time at the pass and chatted with a Canadian couple that love to hike in Washington. Many of our US park trails meet other wilderness trails for loops and new vistas which is unlike their provincial parks that don't share trail systems.

 Meanwhile, the 2 men we'd talked to at "almost lunch" came hiking up.  We got into more conversation with them and one asked me if I wanted fritos or chocolate? I wanted Fritos (I've been hungry on this section, didn't plan enough food for lunches) So he handed me his baggie of Fritos and I started eating them. Peggy interrupted me saying "I don't think he was giving them to you just offering you some!" Oh, I was so embarrassed! He took the baggie, took a few for himself and just gave me back the baggie.  He said he was going home tonight and could eat what he wanted so I should go ahead and take them and not to feel embarrassed. Sheesh! I can't believe I did that!  Peggy said, "Way to yogi food, Jane!" We got a laugh out of that for days! 

Here I am sitting next to the man who bought my Aunt's bookstore and whose Fritos I ate!  Never offer a hungry hiker your food unless you're willing to lose it all!

There are 2 older men hiking the Steven's Pass to Stehekin section that we've been leapfrogging with since yesterday.  They showed up at the pass about 1/2 hr after we got there so we chatted with them a bit then took off from Red's Pass down the glacial slope.  It was scrubbed clean by glacial activity and there are boulders strewn about, small freshets of water trickling from snowmelt that will merge in a river that I can hear in the distance. Areas where greenery has grown and sprouted wildflowers. I imagine this area is covered with snow for most of the year until it melts and lets the flowers have their moment. 

This photo is taken from downslope looking up at Red's Pass which may be one of my favorite spots on the trail so far. This was my "beautiful place".

Gentians blooming as we made our way down from Red's Pass.

Glacier Peak at last.

Down 3 miles to 4000' elevation where we found streams both clear and glacial that drained these tall peaks.  Down into the valleys from Red's Pass we saw flooding & avalanche evidence from the 2003-2005 storms. A lot of work had been done in this area to open it to hiking again in 2010. We reached a river where you can still see the old bridge hanging in the rocks where the flood left it. We're on the new bridge looking up.

Notice the water color, it's glacial melt with particles of ground up rock powder suspended in the water. It looks milky.

Evidence of avalanche and flooding.

We ended up at the Baekos River at a nice campsite. We had to wear head nets because of flies and some mosquitoes.  This river shows great devastation from flooding with dead trees choking the river bed but the river has found a nice way through it. We washed up and laid clothes in the sun, filtered water, rinsed off feet which were DIRTY!

You probably didn't need to see them but this is the real dirty deal!

The 2 older men came through looking for a campsite but left because of the flies. 

After cooking dinner we had to eat in our tents (darn flies), I had Red Lentil Curry soup rehydrated over instant rice. 

The river was loud in our ears all night.

Over, Under, Around or Across

8/20/13

PCT mile 2490-2505 - 15 miles

Elev  5561-5475 

It was cold all night so we were bundled deep into our sleeping bags. My tent site was sloping so all night I hitched my mattress up to adjust to the slow slide toward the end of my tent. I looked outside to see clouds and mist all around us which made for a pretty sunrise as we walked in the early morning light. Down off Grizzly Peak we had good trail and as the clouds cleared we met and passed a group of 4 people in their 30s,  3 guys and 1 girl and an older gentleman and his dog, Jack, who I made friends with.  Around mountain sides over saddles and into new valleys we were thrilled to see a glacier hanging off a mountain that we thought was Glacier Peak ( where we'll be in 2 days) as well as a far off view of Mt Rainier behind us. This is the glacier peak we saw.

We began to see more logs over the trail to be climbed over in any way possible!  Here's Peggy going over one.

We saw evidence of work on the trail ( we found out it was by WTA, Washington Trail Assoc.) here's an example of a trail being raised above the wet, marshy ground.  We so appreciated all the work being done to keep the trail open for us to enjoy.

Edged by logs held in place by wooden pins with  deep trenches to run water off and down a side ditch, great work!

I've never seen a ladder to help you get down a slope but I imagine in rain it would be really helpful not to slip and slide down!

Anyone can call the PCT and volunteer to do trail work. They train you and will match your desire to a project they have going. It's a good way to help preserve the trail for the next generation. 

We passed a field of huge boulders that I had fun with.

We ran into a trail crew working on downed trees with a crosscut saw. No power tools allowed in these wilderness areas. They said to prepare to climb over many downed trees up ahead.

He's holding his long crosscut saw, one guy  will be on each end pulling back and forth.

After our lunch break we came upon many more downed trees, there must have been a big storm up here last winter! What a mess. I ended up walking the length of some, others I would sling a leg over & use branches or another tree to wedge my foot against, grab the rough tree bark as a hand hold to swing over and back down onto the trail. Some can be so challenging that your pack needs to come off to be tossed over or shoved under then get yourself over then put your pack back on. One time I got so carried away walking the length of logs that I completely missed that the trail switch backed the other way. I would have figured it out sooner or later but Peggy called me back!

Many good blueberry opportunities were passed up in our effort to make miles today, with so many people on the trail we felt like we needed to get a campsite before the groups got there. We didn't realize how many sites around the lake there were,  we needn't have worried.

This is Lake SallyAnn, a beautiful, deep blue color. We arrived early enough that we washed and dried out socks, rinsed off and rested a bit. My feet hurt like the soles are bruised so I soaked them in the cold water, and taped them and added moleskin to the tender spots.

We heard that El Tortugo, our friend from the last town stay at Dinsmore's,  is well ahead of us. He was trying to do 30 mile days and get done so we're glad to know he's doing just that! 

We also heard that there are more trees down and harder trail ahead in the last section. I got water filtered for tonight and tomorrow so both Peggy and I lay down in out tents to rest before dinner. 

Blue sky, no clouds, looks like a good day for tomorrow too.

Over I-90 to Grizzly Peak

8/18/13

PCT mile 2476-2490  - 14 mi

Elev 2476-2490

We were up at 7am & to the little cafe/post office across the street from Dinsmore's house where Mr Smith said he had coffee each morning,  if we met him there he'd take us to Steven's Pass.

When he dropped us off we walked across the walkway over I-90 and located the trail north.

Thank you, Mr Smith, for transporting hikers up and down the highway just for the joy of meeting new people! 

The walkway from Steven's Pass Ski Area to the north side of the highway that we walked over.

It was a nice level amble for about 2 miles then the trail ascended, the trail was good and well maintained and we soon turned into the valley and lost the road noise. Eventually we passed Lake Valhalla

and as we walked there was a big marmot in the trail 15 ft from us munching on flowers and greenery growing along the trail.  He wasn't concerned that we were there at all and we got to really see him close up. 

Climbing over the hill and into the next valley it began to rain so we covered our packs with our Packas and continued on.  We met lots of people out hiking, some day hikers and some partial section hikers.  We stopped at 1pm for snacks, we should have eaten more but starting late on the trail got us off schedule. We ascended 1200' then another 900' and I got tired, had to stop for breaks.  We should have eaten more for lunch.  After 500' more we came to Grizzly Peak and decided to camp there since we'd kept enough water for a dry camp we were prepared to stay there. 

Clouds were gathering but we hoped no more rain would fall.

We camped in a copse of trees with a sloped floor.  We're happy with only 14 miles today as our packs are heavier than we like.  This is my tent, pitched at 6:30 pm and dinner at 7:40 (black bean soup with noodles and rice, Parmesan cheese and hot sauce for spice).  Clouds all around, some hanging up over the north peaks. It was chilly at night but no rain!