8/21/14 8 miles.
Although the sky was threatening rain we had none last night. We slept until 7:30 and went with Candice for breakfast once we had everything packed and ready to go. It was a sunny day and enjoyable eating at a picnic table outside. At 10:15 we said goodbye, Peggy and I hiking south to locate the trail coming out of the campground, we were following the John Muir Trail that joins with the PCT for awhile. Our plan was to camp 8 miles from Tuolumne Meadows positioning us to summit and get down Donohue Pass before afternoon storms made it unsafe to be at altitude. It was a pretty flat 8 miles following the Tuolumne River up Lyell Canyon where it becomes the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River.
We passed day hikers going 6-7 miles up the valley hoping to see Lyell Glacier from the trail. One couple was just behind us when I came upon Peggy stopped in the trail. She motioned me forward and we watched a coyote leap in the air to pounce on something. We saw it toss a small squirrel in the air and gulp it down in 2 bites. The other couple walked quietly up behind me and I motioned them forward so they could watch too as the coyote leapt and pounced again. This time coyote was full so it played with the squirrel tossing it into the air over and over before finally rolling on it then eating. We looked at one another, mouths hanging open in wonder, awed by what we were privileged to witness. Moving around the corner of the trail, we once again saw the coyote, who had moved beyond our view. It was poised again to pounce on another squirrel but ran when it saw us. Peggy got a nice photo with her zoom lens but I couldn't get a good shot.
By 3pm we'd found a good campsite and set up. There were dark clouds hanging over the pass and we decided to get chores done before it rained on us.
Looking at the pass under dark clouds from the meadow in front of our campsite.
In front of camp was the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne where we watched fish dart to and fro and had a great view of Donohue Pass and Lyell Glacier. We filtered water from a tiny spring I found uphill from our camp and had dinner.
There was time to explore a little before bed but it was also getting cold so once the sun went down we turned in.
8/22/14. 11 miles
Last night once it turned dark I heard strange noises, couldn't figure out what they were but as I listened intently I heard pounding hooves and bells...NOT AGAIN! Mules and horses came running up the trail then veered into the meadow at the entrance to our campsite. I looked out my tent door and in the darkness could just make out the white color on a horse. There must have been a dozen by the sound of them. Peggy & I wondered if they were the same group that we'd run across previously and if the ranger was still chasing them or if he'd let them go again! If he was still working on his experiment, seeing where stock would go if let loose in a meadow, we were tired of being part of the picture! Sometime in the wee hours of the morning they went thundering back the way they'd come. Just our luck to get the mule treatment twice!
Cold mist rising off the river by our camp in the morning. It was just 1/2 mile to the end of the meadow where we saw two groups camping. I'll bet the horses milled around the end of the meadow all night before heading back this morning.
We began the 4 uphill miles to the top of Donohue Pass, along the way there were two nice camps 1 and 2 miles before the top.
The first camp was beside this creek flowing off Lyell Glacier. Climbing steeply up to the pass, I stopped to look back at the meadow where we'd spent the night.
It was far, far down the valley.
This is 2 miles up the climb, this water flows off the glacier which you can see in the peaks. This is a tiny valley tucked below the glacier, just beautiful! Our trail ran up the right side and behind into a small bowl before going up the left of the peaks beyond our sight.
Climbing higher, looking back at the alpine bowl. We crossed the water at the left of the photo and climbed up through the granite rocks.
Climbing higher looking back again at the alpine bowl and stream.
I'm looking at the glacier from the rocks where we took a break. Three men on a week hike passed us on their way up the trail.
They took a photo for us at another higher, glacial colored lake with Lyell glacier in the background. This was a gorgeous place but windy and chill, we wore our jackets because it was going to get colder & windier up at the pass, 10,100 feet high.
Climbing still higher, I took this photo of the valley where we'd camped last night, a loooong way down!
Almost on top, no trees at this altitude although they are growing below where we'd taken a break.
At the summit we met a family who took our photo, the wind was howling and without my hat my hair stood on end. Who cared as long as we'd made it to the top!! Peggy waited for me by a tiny lake on top of the pass. She saw birds hiding in the rocks and taking refuge by the water. We watched them for awhile taking some photos. They looked to me like Ptarmigan I'd seen when I lived in Alaska. They wore a grey/brown mottled coat with white feathers on feet and legs in the summer. If they were Ptarmigan they'd wear pure white feathers in the winter. (Google later confirmed that Ptarmigan had been planted in the Sierras)
Getting down off the summit we followed a very rocky trail. This is a look back up.
Marmots whistled loudly from the rocks but this old guy lounged above us unmoved that we were near.
Looking to the left were crags and minarets in this big bowl shaped valley and more peaks to the right as well as in front. The Sierra Range is awe inspiring.
Tiny lakes dot the landscape rimmed by sharp granite mountains. I knew the day would hold more and more wonderful sights. After descending for 4 miles the trail started to rise again, Island Pass stood in the way of seeing Thousand Island Lake which I was anxious to see. Topping the pass we wandered through small unnamed lakes as the afternoon grew chilly and breezy.
We took a break by the shore of this gem with no name.
Then we wound across sloped meadow into the stunted trees lining the lakes. This is my first view of Thousand Island Lake.
Coming out of the trees the lake is revealed. Even in a low water year the sight took my breath away with its beauty. Unfortunately the wind was ripping across the water toward us so we decided to go on to the next smaller Emerald Lake, to try for a more sheltered camp.
It was still windy at Emerald Lake but we found a nice campsite and called it a day. We were both exhausted. I went exploring after setting up the tent and found we were camped on the backside of a rock cliff overlooking the lake. We took our stoves and food up there for dinner with a $1,000 view!
Incomparable beauty! This is why we hike.
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