Evolution Basin, up Muir Pass & down again.

7/27/15 Monday 11 1/2 miles

There has been no contact with family or friends and we may have none for 12 days when we hike out to Independence.

 

Last night I had a good nights sleep, we started hiking at 7:50am going slightly uphill beside the San Joaquin River close to its headwaters before turning to cross the river & head up switchbacks to Evolution Basin. Along the switchbacks I stopped to listen, hearing the sound of lots of water off in the woods. We stepped off the switchback, walking a short way into the woods we could see waterfalls cascading down from above.  We dropped our packs and carefully made our way to where we could see a fantastic series of falls. 

I found a rock to sit on and enjoy the view. We both walked around carefully, getting some good views of the pools formed by eons of water wearing on rock.

A panorama of the falls coming from Evolution Basin.

Leaving this view we got back on the trail, crested the switchbacks and saw Evolution Creek which we crossed about 1/2 hour later. I took off my shoes and crossed wearing my socks which I then changed so my feet were dry.  Lots of hikers were stopping to cross in sandals, crocs, water shoes or just wade across in shoes, socks and all. Peggy and I decided to hike another mile and have lunch near McClure Meadow and the ranger station. Well we missed the ranger station marker and ended up hiking farther then stopping near water for our lunch break at 12:45.  We filtered water for the climb to Evolution Lake 1,000 feet up in 1 1/2 miles,  where we hope to camp. This last 1/2 day has been a battle with the uphill and my leg pain, a lot of stop and go, pretty discouraging. I was so slow a spike deer came within 10 feet from me, grazing and meandering along under the trees. Peggy went on ahead and waited for me at a clearing. 

 After a short rest, we moved on up and soon Evolution Lake was laid out like a jewel in a stark, granite bowl. 12,000 feet of soaring granite crags rising all around us, sequoias are perched along the ledges where dirt has collected to give them a small toe hold. Clouds are gathering but seem to be passing this basin by. Just a small amount of smoke is lingering in this place from the fire we saw yesterday. We quickly found a place to camp out on the exposed rock.  There are quite a few hikers camped in the basin. 

I took this pano of a small lake just before topping the rise and seeing Evolution Lake.

Our campsite. 

After dinner, stashing the bear canisters, getting water etc we were ready to climb into the tents but the sunset was beautiful painting the peaks pink and we got stuck gazing around.  We're at 11,000 feet elevation with a clear sky and 3/4 moon, it may be cold tonight!  We're paying for forgetting to power our electronics, I used my solar battery pack to power my iPhone but only had 1/2 battery to give Peggy a charge on her camera.  

Dinner was at 7:30pm, I made white chicken chili and rice rehydrated with 2 c water in my plastic bag and cozy.  Love the cleanup;  fold plastic ziplock and ... done!

7/28/15 Tuesday 12 miles

Last night was not cold but the moon was bright and at some point I heard chewing near my tent. Slapping the side of the tent I chased whatever critter it was away but then I was awake & it was bright & only 10:45pm.  Sigh, awake...

I slept fitfully the rest of the night.

We hiked out at 7:40 am before the others were up, skirting the long lake shore. 

Peggy crossing Saphire Lake egress in the early morning light.

Saphire Lake's exposed shoreline told the story of the long drought.  Granite rock everywhere and soaring spires as backdrop.  Climbing higher in the basin we walked the shoreline of beautiful Wanda Lake set in a large granite bowl showing the glacial scraping activity of eons past.  This lake is named for John Muir's eldest daughter. 

Wanda Lake is in the middle of this granite bowl as I looked back during the climb to Muir Pass. Turning to look at the pass I could see the tiny triangle shape of Muir hut's stone roof. Trekking up the 5 mile climb to the pass & iconic Muir hut seemed to take forever, it can be seen from a long way down the valley.  It's made out of stone from it's surroundings & supports itself like an igloo. Along the way we passed a solo woman hiking, she's 70 years old, just retired and working on her bucket list like I am. She says she hikes 1 mile an hour and gets as far as she can or wants each day.  She's glad to be out here doing what she has dreamed of.  We cheered the fact that we're all out here pursuing our dreams and encouraged her to keep on!

Once we gained the top of the pass the views were expansive, we took photos, had a look inside the hut, ate lunch and began down the long trail to a campsite this evening (1,000 feet up to the pass then 3,000 feet lost in the descent to the valley).

Peggy & I at Muir hut.

There were 6.5 miles to descend through tumbled rock.  The next lake was Helen Lake named for Muir's youngest daughter.  It was another stunning jewel set into multi colored granite tinged with red & black.  These rocks seem to be composed of other minerals, iron oxide maybe? 

Pano of Helen Lake. 

Our trail led to the right near the red/ black rocks and down into a canyon, the middle fork of the Kern River gaining power with every freshet and trickle that joined it on it's way down to the valley.

Unnamed lakes lay below us as we wound our way over rocky mounds, crossing the small fork twice before we stopped and took a break on its banks near a small meadow. Feet got washed, socks too, water got filtered and snacks eaten.  Down, down we hiked into the trees, craning our necks to see new mountain peaks named for people I've not heard of.  It would be nice to read up on all the name places we've seen just in the Sierra alone. Almost 5:15 pm we met a ranger coming up trail going to a trail crew to deliver a message, we waited a second thinking she would ask to see our permits and our bear cans but she wasn't interested in us!  Near the trail we saw a doe and spike browsing and a bit farther saw a nice rock shelf that we decided on for camping. Water filtered from the stream, tents up we set about making dinner, I made tortellini with dried spaghetti sauce. Just add water!